holley sniper efi iac problems
I will let you know what the results are. But another thing to consider is adjusting your target A/F ratio. With select intake manifolds, the distributor housing and IAC valve on the back of the Sniper EFI throttle body are fighting for the same . Since that has long been corrected we have moved that information to the bottom of the article.). That's a nice change of pace--a low idle issue! Throttle Tip-In tuning can be a bit of a challenge but I'm confident you can get this resolved, Mike.Let me start by saying that unless you've really done a lot of driving on the system in some useful learning situations then I would set this issue aside and not even think about it. Ive played with the timing on this thing multiple times.Car was fullly restored last year. Thanks so much for reading! And your understanding of how the throttle position affects idle is exactly correct. Short drives is fine then it'll Thanks! I have a bone stock 350 that I installed a Sniper on and had the same whistle noise, presumably from air going past the butterflies. Let me be perfectly clear: If your engine will not drop below 1350 RPM with the idle speed screw turned all the way out then you have an air leak. If it does then you can put on a heavier spring so the advance doesn't come in as fast, or use a lighter weight. If you haven't confirmed that they it is worth checking. Holley sniper, bogging/ losing power "NOW FIXED" I have heard some guys complain that the idle is too good and they can't hear their cam anymore I'm kind of like that. And your question is very perceptive: You must first know whether the bog is a lean or a rich condition before you can make the correct adjustments. Very annoying ended up being simple my rear plates would stay open constantly it was driving me nuts I'd let off the pedal idle at 1300 blip the throttle a few times finally come back to 850. There's a procedure there I can share with you if you'd like.. Interesting question. Did your process to adjust idle to 860. Save Share. When I first told him to check for leaks he looked back there and said "all good". I am having an issue with the IAC on the Sniper. There are six different acceleration enrichment tables that you can tweak and that may be the way to go. That will at least tell you something. And if you're going to go this route I'd recommend that you switch from "Simple" (3 A/F targets, one each for Idle, Cruise, and WOT) and go to the 2-D Table Um, no. check, I guess after reading everyone saying how great the system is after However, I did have another fellow who contacted me that claims he went through three units before he could get one that would talk between the ECU and the Monitor. Start engine let it warm up to 160, learn mode is learning. port that goes right on the inlet of your Sniper and makes installation a breeze.If your fuel pressure is solid at about 60 PSI then you should start looking at Stupid question, but where do I see if it's entering Learn mode? If the TPS is 1% or below then the air is coming from somewhere else. They always responded to my questions with guidance that helped me choose the right system for me. Use the idle speed screw to set the idle at a comfortable warm-up speed. What must remain foremost in your mind is that the only thing that can cause the idle to increase is additional air getting into the engine. Using the handheld, navigate to Tuning > Basic > Basic Idle and ensure your target idle speed is set to the RPM you desire. The fact that it ran so (at times) with 90+ PSI fuel pressure is a testimony to the Holley's closed-loop technology. Bolt-on carburetor style EFI for your classic car or truck. 90% of time with engine hot. I have tried your 10-step idle adjust and ive adjusted the idle curve. If the TPS is 1% or below then the ECU is in control--2% or greater and the ECU thinks you've got it under control. Seems like its too slow to grab idle when ac kicks on. Next, reach down into the secondaries and push the butterflies closed. when things aren't working and this provides just that. 680-700.I can't find any reason other than it looses where it is in the firmware with Okay, try my method. Once you confirm the operation of your IAC then it's time to read my article on Solving RFI Problems. Even at 0% it's sucking a bunch of air through the IAC port. Hey Tommy, we've got at least one thing in common. Good My issue is that the TP% will not reset with key cycle and its idleing at 9% TP. While confirming, in the handheld ensure that the Reference Angle is set to 57.5 and that the Inductive Delay is set to 100. If The first 250-300 miles were amazing as the Sniper EFI worked flawlessly. I.e. Throttle Tip-In puts you in a part of the fuel map where you stay for only milliseconds at a time. Now that you've installed at least four Snipers it is going to be imperative that you learn to create and read datalogs. As far as the timing light, I don't know, because I was having problems getting it to work, and that's where I stopped. The following are status commands and diagnostics for sensor and various parameters in the Holley software. After a stall the car will restart but will be in a high idle. That disappears as soon as the throttle is pressed and then you immediately revert to your timing table.You can certainly use the compressor to initate the IAC Kick, but remember that this is just a temporary idle boost to ensure that the engine doesn't die when the AC is first turned on. EFI parts, including the throttle body, and the problem persists.Please give me a hand. If you get into the practice of hearing all three of these sounds you will know if you have a problem even before you turn the key to crank. There's still a very small amount of airflow that squeezes past a closed IAC valve; it's that venturi like sound you're hearing. idle at 1100 on the "stock" file it's better with street strip.The IAC counts will be at zero. I'll bet you find that you can get it working great without any manual tuning. Some advanced conceptsIf you have the Sniper Can-Bus to USB Adapter, you can connect your laptop, open the software to the learn table, and get a visual for where in the table you are experiencing the lean bog. I believe because the TPS is not registering. Reducing that a bit will help. So, clearly, the "No" answer is wrong. As you see above, the Sniper is going to dump in a maximum amount of fuel at zero TPS, begins to remove acceleration enrichment at 60 percent TPS, and then removes all acceleration enrichment correction at 100% TPS. In the Wizard, select the stock cam setting. Therefore The iac will always be at 10% now, correct? The only way to confirm RFI problems is by doing a data log. If you remove the air cleaner entirely and the whistle continues then you can rule that out. I asked him a million questions and waited a long time to save up before purchasing the system and I have asked a lot of questions throughout the installation process. Thanks. First, check to make sure that the IAC is properly mounted and connected. IAC looks good once it finally s fires. The on board fuel pressure regulator in the Sniper throttle body has a small filter clipped over one end . When the system is up and running the fuel pressure regulator inside the Sniper is making a rattling sound like a shaking a paint can. Is there away to program the ecu to compensate for this at start up. If you don't have a working coolant temperature sensor then it will never bring the idle speed down. Thanks for sharing that, Jason--great info! I have a feeling it's something simple but I thought I'd ask you first before I inadvertently change something that affects other areas. Jun 12, 2021. That is not something I'd ignore. Also its extremely rich at idle. It's pretty hard to get the header tubes glowing at idle with a lean AFR. You mentioned going from 13.5 to 14.2 but you'd want to go in the other direction--maybe to 13.2. WIthout knowing quite a bit more it will be more than challenging for you to identify the problem and solve it.Fortunately, Holley provides their amazing Sniper Software. Please give this a try and let us know how it works! When I turn the key on I can hear it prime, but I don't think im getting enough fuel. Is this normal ? Thanks, That is an strange situation. If I read it correctly, the solution from the other thread seemed to fix a constant 300 or so RPM increase. Based on your situation above as well as some of other experiences, I recognized that I needed to improve my tuning procedures above to better explain what steps to take if that 10-step process doesn't completely solve the problem. Going lower with the blanking might pay dividends, but there is so little room below 7/8 that you will quickly be in a range where every tiny variation in the TPS or MAP is throwing extra fuel into the engine. Jump on board now! But I still get the iac at 0 and the rpm at 1200. Well, it sounds to me like your Sniper is doing its best to reduce your idle. The progressive link can be a great solution on standard (non-Stealth) throttle bodies but I would install this LAST after everything else is working perfectly. Due to when the pump i'm using now makes a loud howling noise when it gets ran for awhile and it gets at a 1/4 tank of fuel or less. any advise would be appreciated. Hi Chris. However, I have what I will call a whistle at a throttle position on 35 - 50. Also what would you say a desired idle should be for a 3 speed automatic ford? Sniper EFI Idle Tuning - Holley Motor Life At some point you come upon problems that evade the easy answers and this is a good example. I'd really appreciate some help. Take a drive and stop somewhere for 30 minutes, CTS is 170 when engine was shutoff. I know this is old, but I bought and installed a Sniper kit in 9/18. I' m going to put the 3 rd new pump this coming friday. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. Do you have any clue? PDF Sensor Diagnostics and Statuses - Holley He is able to get it to start by quickly depressing the accelerator to at least 60% and releasing. I didn't find your site until I was having trouble. If the engine will after the 4 seconds that the IAC kick drops off then it's not really going to help.At any rate, it costs you nothing to advance the ignition and see if that doesn't improve the idle, right? Copyright 2017 Cyberspace Automotive Performance, Inc. All Rights Reserved. The solution is to either lower the IAC hold position or increase the RPM above idle to start ramp (default is 1000 RPM). Thank you for any advice. It wont fire up. Holley Sniper Iac Delete I have never seen issue when CTS is below 120 degrees. me know how it works for you. I installed my Sniper and the engine fired up great. It then started working normally again. I have adjusted many settings and eventually mess it up and go back to the original map. I would not expect that an electric fan would create a noticeable load on the engine but if it did then you'd want to set the idle screw when the fan was not running. You should get a light spray evenly distributed in all four barrels. Hello It then idles up from 750 to 1100. It could be that the air flow across the secondaries as they are opening is creating that whistle but that isn't commonly the case.Did you check for leaks around the gasket of the air cleaner? is the fuel pressure. Should it not do the opposite and do this on a cold start not warm. As I said above, you could have a bad IAC, but then again, the IAC might be fine and there's a deeper problem such as RFI noise causing the issue or a vacuum leak that is confusing things. Be sure to re-enable it once you get your idle tuned. I will a, Scott has been very helpful and informative on guiding me through the purchasing and installation of my terminator X max system. Sniper EFI Update: Weeks Later, Do I Still Feel It Was Worth It? itself out and hold idleeventually stalling. My issue is that when Im in stop and go traffic, I can let off the clutch and the engine revs and doesnt quite want to come back to idle. So you installed your Holley Sniper. IAC Pos.% = 0 If you hit the gas it pops & backfires through the throttle body. I set it exactly like the instructions said and my iac is not only all over the place but when I finally did get it to the 2-10 range it's highlighted in red. You can drop it down and you will find it will behave more like you expect. The jack-rabbit start can usually be minimized by adjusting the throttle linkage. And the rather cavalier "Absolutely!" Then why don't you Get On The List for Emails Straight From Our Pro? Then it will ramp down to 1200 but will not return to idle. One way is to very carefully watch the handheld monitor, and that may be adequate. Unfortunately I did not buy my sniper efi from you. I have changed my roc/tps to 7 from 15 but that only took me out of learn mode. When I put it in park the idle RPM was 2100-2200 each time. Have a look--I think this is going to allow you to fix your idle problem. After 50 on the throttle position I'm not sure if the whistle goes away or you just can't here it anymore. Running new vintage air system so the is only a single power wire to compressor thats why I asked if I needed to run input wire to ac relay or if iac would pick it up fast enough(which its not). I also raised idle at Park a bit with the idle screw. I put it in neutral and the idle RPM had increased to 2100-2200. Thank you. Usually it wont stay on 0% very long and soon changes to another number like 1 or 2%. The RPM would increase for no reason. If I put the truck in neutral the TPMS will raise all the way up over 2000. I've tried repeatedly re-creating the scenario in hopes that the E.C.M. I've been having problems with my sniper efi just shutting off. Now it registers zero and I have good idle but it will not register until it hits 60 and up. Your mechanical advance will naturally change the timing a bit but it should be fairly close. You'll have to go back and forth a couple of times to get it just right. Featured Products Sniper EFI $7.07 - $2,457.95 470 Products View Parts author Staff Writer 1711 Posts An Article About Video tech Sniper EFI Videos Sniper EFI Tech Sniper EFI sniper Installation Don't try to correct for the fuel. First--besides the fact that it's not represented on the display, it is not even a parameter that you can datalog. Have you ever experienced a high idle once the engine reaches 200 degrees?Ive set my idle the way you said and it works great until the engine reaches 200 degrees. Shut it off and immediately restarted and idle was now 880 with IAC at 8.If this is a vacuum leak I can't figure out what would cause it to go away immediately after shutting down the car and restarting. If you complete the process and find that the IAC is less than 2% at idle, repeat the process and use the set screw to make the RPM about 60 RPM below the target. I don't want to go on too long here but once you know if you're trying to add or remove fuel, there are a couple of ways to go. When I removed the tape and started it again, it was idling at 1400-1500 RPM and sucking a bunch of air through the IAC, even though it showed 0% on the sensors screen (pic attached). your IAC is at zero. 2. Turning it off and back on would reset it, and then it would work as advertised for a while. Having a TPS that won't go lower than 9% will affect the acceleration enrichment correction, and could create a stumble at the first moment of throttle opening.Yes, the IAC can and will fluctuate depending on changing conditions. Solving Holley Sniper High Idle Issues - EFISystemPro.com But they are 100% committed to your satisfaction. Covered the IAC port and set idle for 850 ish. For someone in your position, it will become an indispensable tool in your tool box. Plus, you can email that file to me and I can be of more help. I will turn it up some more.Is this something that the ECU will learn? Note that Brazilian gasoline has 27% ethyl alcohol. Let's start by not assuming anything. Why is this? If I put the vehicle in gear the idle gets higher with temp. !I called Holley today, and before I could even described the symptoms the The car cruises fine, and if I was to keep idle at 2000rpm the issue wont happen, its only when the car tries to ramp down to idle position.Thank you for your help, any advice would be appreciated.Thank you,Eric, Whenever we see the AFR go to "Heating" that is an indication that the ECU has been reset. First, I'm kind of insistent about not changing any of the default settings unless the vehicle absolutely will not cooperate enough to drive/learn, and only then if you have a specific understanding of the problem and a specific solution. When you experience this, before you touch anything or shut the engine down, first look at your TPS and your IAC. You might have a bad O2 sensor, really bad exhaust leak or a problem with the ECU. You could go either way.. Switch power to the Sniper on and crank the engine. And Earl's makes a fantastic little 100 PSI gauge. No big deal, just time to re-adjust! Then you can take a close look at the IAC and see if it is opening. I believe that for the HyperSpark the Reference Angle should be 57.5. IAC percentage is 5 to 10% when idling with fans on, What you're experiencing is the delay time between the ECU sensing the additional load and the IAC actually increasing the RPM. I used the Casper's Electronics 108103 splitter and carefully soldered my connections. At low levels RF interference will often reset the ECU so quickly that the engine will not stall. Unless you have ignition control enabled, that is the only thing it can do to reduce the idle.Realize the only things that can cause the car to idle up as you describe are air and ignition advance. Please check your process again and see if you can see very specifically what is not working correctly. RPM = 1200My slow gear I leave with 650 RPM, the IAC Position I leave between 5 and 6%, the Hi Chris , greetings from Down Under (AUS) Just a note on the hi fuel pressure issue . (Grease can sometimes do the same thing as a more permanent gasket sealer without making the removal of the air cleaner such a pain.). And since they really had an insanely-tight monetary and real estate budget in the Sniper EFI System, it is unlikely that the added something that wasn't absolutely necessary--and then forgot to use it..And you are spot on about the little Earl's gauge with optional -6 AN port. Installed sniper on 65 galaxie. Good luck! Overview. I have checked the pink wire and it is at .001 volts when key is off. Let Interesting situation you have. There is a chance that the IAC is open but displaying 0% so start by putting your finger over the IAC opening. Chris, I recently installed my Sniper and have an intermittent idle problem. Then a little faster--until bogs at that level work themselves out. What should I be looking at to calm this down? Sniper EFI offers superior throttle response and wide-open throttle power. It's called tuning. The Sniper will be controlling the timing so it will be based on a multitude of factors. Even at 0% it's sucking a bunch of air through the IAC port. Thanks again Chris, your help has been invaluable.If anyone is considering going EFI, Chris is the man to chat with. I emphasize "and" because the transmission controller manufacturer I used had the TPS ground terminated within the harness to the unit's main ground, which I find to be an unthinkable choice. Does that make sense to you? Wish I knew about it before I made my purchase. :-). If I read it correctly, the solution from the other thread seemed to fix a constant 300 or so RPM increase. When I covered the IAC with my finger, the RPM dropped so low it stalled. Even then, recognize that over time the IAC will need to be readjusted to compensate for minor changes that will cause it to drift. Glad to hear that you have timing control enabled, Gary. It has a lightweight centrifugal spring kit installed so I reach total timing around 2500 rpm. Then do it just a bit faster--just enough for it to bog a bit. Hi. If it is already adding fuel, it may be worth expanding this into the area where the tip-in is occuring (and where there is no learning occuring. The problem was RF interferance . In the wizard I set my Idle to 500RPM but it never got slower than 800RPM, if I run the wizard again and lower to 400 RPM then it never gets lower than 700RPM.After reading about the Idle Speed curver I checked its settings and found that the curve was 300rpm faster at every point over the temp range no matter what temp I had, I adjusted the curve to match what I put in on the wizard and now the RPM is correct, I'd say you have a bug in the wizard.Idle Speed > Idle Speed Curve: Here is where the lack of coolant temperature is going to affect you. A few, however, get tangled up getting the idle control working just the way they want. The tps has slotted holes, can you adjust it to get to zero? You might even want to add our 4-foot extension harness that will allow you to connect/disconnect the display or CAN-to-USB adapter from inside the car (rather than trying to do that leaning over the engine and under the breather. Some suggestions: i did have the same problem.try lengthening the lever of the throttle.meaning the length from the center of the throttle to the point where you attach your cable or your rod from the peddle. and if you do run into any problems then, yes, the plethora of tunability adjustments available through either the handheld or the Sniper Software will certainly be enough to get you right where you need to be! )Then look a the datalog and find out what TPS ROC and MAP ROC is most likely to cause the problem. Yes, it will talk to you--but not with words. I hope everyone enjoys this v. You can find those settings here: Handheld: Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Rampdown, Software: Idle > IAC Settings > IAC Ramp Down. I also tried changing roc/map to 8 from 15 again no change at all.My ve table is smooth and tuned I even changed my AFR to 13.5 from 14.2 and no change at all. So if you are trying to achieve a stoichiometric mixture in ethanol (which is achieved at an AFR of 9.0:1) then you should continue to target 14.7:1 since that is what will be displayed. Consider adding fuel in the AE vs TPS and/or AE vs MAP ROC tables in the area where the stumble is occuring.Since this is happening at such low TPS levels it is possible that your engine would prefer a lower (richer) target AFR number at idle. They also recommended that their ground be spliced into the Sniper ground as close to the Sniper as possible. During cruising at 30 miles and release the gas pedal the engine revs at aproximaly 1500 RPM and it won't drop. Rpm with 4-8 iac but it still shows red and shuts off randomly at idle and it won't even drive 2 miles without shutting off. If not then you have some other issue that is behind this increased idle. The throttle position should be zero. The IAC is hanging open and not really at 0. Hello Chris. Yes, let me know how that setup process works. It started right up and we did your idle control fix and all is good at idle. The fix? Hello Chris. Was perfect idle iac reading 3. TPS 0. At this time, TPS is 0%, IAC is 50 to 60%. There are two ways to address this--you can let the system learn or you can manually adjust the acceleration enrichment. Sometimes it sounds like it wants to crank at the start but runs out of gas. Cl. Have you confirmed your fuel pressure at idle is 60 PSI? to. When I cover it with my hands, it gets quieter. Will restart but only for a minute or so a couple of times then shuts down fuel delivery and will not restart. Cheers Darren. About two minutes after I get it set at 850 & 5%, it has progressed to 100%. We are using Target AFR of 9.0: 1, Fuel Base approximately 40% higher. And, while that is happening, make a note of the temperature before you engage the starter, and then the rpm when it starts.The Idle Parked Position is set on a temperature-based graph like the Idle Speed Curve. View Holley Sniper EFI Self-Tuning Kit - Shiny Finish. The warmer the motor, the higher the idle will be at this point. Now it's at 5% on a big cam 440 Mopar. Realize that when you drop the throttle, the engine enters a condition it will only see for a fraction of a second at a time. sniper Installation If you're installing a Sniper EFI system and almost ready to crank it over for the first time, this is the video for you! Is there away to lean the idle out? I have replaced the IAC motor and the problem remains. Can the return line be an issue?I have had 2 faulty gpa-4 255 walbro pumps go bad. Chris's Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions*: *Note: If you are using your Sniper to control ignition timing then I recommend that before you start this process you disable idle spark control If you are trying to do this while the ECU is simultaneously trying to bring your idle under control by adjusting the advance it is going to be counter-productive. Resistance results in heat and heat results in more resistance. If I were there in person I would test the function of the IAC (see this article.) Drive great and idles perfect at stop signs. Maybe give it a half-turn before you start it and then start and tweak. I will try the other stuff when I get off work. Bryan McTaggart 02/28/2023 news With everything else being right and since you can make it start by adding fuel it seems like you must have some sort of fuel pressure issue. That is what I really respect about Holley. The small rubber plug had a leak. That changes almost instantly as the engine revs.Since the learning algorithm requires some time exposure to a certain condition to make larger changes, that half-second makes only the smallest impact. Fuel Flow lb / h = 12.1 That is certainly not normal! So try changing your IAC hold value slightly:Tuning : Advanced : Adv. Going back to what you said. However I do have a couple of issues I hope you can help me resolve. However, it is a good question so I thought I'd throw a few bits of info out there that I think might help.First, I believe that you may have a basic misunderstanding of what is being referred to sort of generically as AFR. Is there any chance that your timing has changed since you installed your Sniper? So glad this was helpful. Holley EFI Electronic Fuel Pressure Gauge, article on choosing between Sniper and Terminator X throttle body solutions. The broad consensus has been that the Sniper is an amazingly straight-forward install and starts and tunes as expected. If it creates an issue (not normally the case) then you'll know. That's what you're seeing. I certainly appreciate your frustration (as well as your wife's!) I cut and heat-shrink wrapped the 5V wire and then ran both the signal and ground wires all the way back to the transmission controller. Wish I had bought my sniper from you, but unfortunately didnt. Or is there something else I should There is no real mystery here. What could be the cause? The first thing I'd do is check your fuel pressure with a gauge like this. Some have suggested the gasket might cause it but I've never heard of anyone fixing the whistle by adjusting the gasket (and many have tried. I got it home, checked it all over, everything is hooked up correctly. Even though you think your timing is perfect I'd suggest you try cranking about 5-10 degrees of advance into the distributor and just see if that doesn't work better for you.Remember this: adjustable timing pointers go out of adjustment and harmonic balancers slip. I can have it working fine (5% to 10% at target idle at operating temp.) The person I bought it from said he never could get it to run for more than a few seconds. Holley Sniper EFI Problems: Best Fixes According to Manufacturer When I see that your TPS is 1%, that tells me that you may have an RFI problem. Holley have given a new unit. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. Tuning Your Sniper EFI System for Progressive Secondary Link Use
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